Item - Large (1.25" diameter) Antique Silver West's Patent 'The Duchess' Solitaire Cuff Link converted into a pin brooch, Circa 1870s; the fronts of the brooch is silver on copper with some of the copper bleeding through the silver. The front of the cuff link features Georgina Cavendish (1757-1806) the Duchess of Devonshire, in a portrait style similar to that painted by Thomas Gainsborough (please see all photos)
Maker - George West
Stamps - Stamped to the rear with WEST & Co PATENT THE DUCHESS SOILTAIRE and the a Diamond Registration Mark.
Type - Pin Back Brooch
Circa - 1870s
Construction - Solid on Copper Front with base metal rear
Country of Origin - England
Face Dimensions - 1.25" in diameter
Weight - 21 gram
Condition - Excellent Used Condition though as mentioned some of the copper is showing through on the front.
Other Interesting Points -
Insight into Solitaire Cufflinks and the George West's Patent
In 1872 the useful items called solitaires (spring studs) were first patented by George West as 'Fasteners for Collars and Cuffs'. The variation and design in the mechanism was tremendous. Even with the fixed studs (which did not come apart), there were several ingenious designs to make their use easier for the wearer. Some had oval shanks, some were crescent shaped and some had double oval shanks. There were also types with hanging bars which opened to pass through the stiff shirt materials and then snapped shut; plus many more were available at the time.
However, it was the solitaires (later known as bachelor's buttons) that were the most successful. Although they were made by various firms the greatest and most prolific manufacturer was George West. The design was excellent and examples remain in working condition today (as above). The principle of the mechanism is of two winged projections which, when depressed, release their hold on a central shank so that the back and front are completely separate and can be easily put through various thickness of shirt and collar before being snapped firmly together.
Solitaires were made in a wide variety of materials such as gold, silver, mother of pearl, glass (painted, moulded and cut), brass, agate, moss agate, malachite. 'Imitation stones', jet, bog oak and combinations of silver inlaid with gold, jet and mother of pearl. Registered marks date these studs to a limited period between 1870 and 1890. Manufacturers and makers included Greaves' Patent, W. E. Wiley and Sons, F. Moore, Hales Patent, Reading, F. F. Abbey, S. Alford, D. Cutler, 'Perfect Action', Appleby and Stamps' Patent and Atkins' Improved Patent.
Extract Taken and Adapted from E. Eckstein and J & G Firkin wonderful Shire Album book Gentlemen's Dress Accessories.
(Please see all Photos).
POSTAGE & PACKAGING
There is a charge of £2.00 for Postage and Packaging to all U.K. Residents (Standard UK Delivery), we will also ship Worldwide please check table below for delivery costs. If you have any questions please feel free to contact!
|UK Next Day Delivery||£8.00|
|UK Recorded Delivery||£3.00|
|UK Standard Delivery||£2.00|
|Air Mail Europe||£3.00|
|Air Mail Outside Europe||£4.00|